May 7, 2021


All Things Delicious

Ministry of Crab: The story behind Sri Lanka’s most well known cafe

5 min read
Colombo (CNN) — Crabs caught in Sri Lankan waters are so prized in Singapore‘s fine eating institutions that a one a person can offer for hundreds of bucks. But there was a person location in which these crabs were not the hottest dish on the menu — Sri Lanka.

Which is when chef Dharshan Munidasa, who grew up in Colombo, started pondering about how he could return a person of Sri Lanka’s most legendary exports back to the men and women who produced it popular.

Munidasa does not necessarily have the identical resume as your regular celeb chef.

He did not develop up remaining interested in foodstuff, he didn’t go to culinary college, and he was not raised in an approved foodie cash. But which is specifically what created him the right individual to solitary-handedly alter the way the wider world viewed Sri Lankan cooking.

Ministry of Crab’s signature coloration is yellow, which is observed almost everywhere from the partitions to the coasters.

Courtesy of Ministry of Crab

The accidental chef

Munidasa was born in Tokyo and elevated in Colombo by a Japanese mother and Sri Lankan father. But it was not until finally he went to the United States in the 1990s to study at Johns Hopkins University that he first started off cooking. He could not abide cafeteria food stuff, so he figured it was time to find out to cook.

“It was not like the kid from Sri Lanka went to the US and missed his dwelling-cooked food stuff. It was just frequent food items that was not great in dorms,” he states. “There was no WhatsApp or Google or YouTube or nearly anything like that. I experienced to bodily get in touch with people, my aunts in Japan, my mom, my grandmother, to request about something below and how they cook dinner this.”

Through demo and mistake, plus obsessive documentation of what labored and what failed to, Munidasa went from cooking for survival to cooking for pleasure. And when he returned to Sri Lanka right after receiving his degree in computer engineering, he started considering about cooking for a living.

First up was higher-close Japanese restaurant Nihonbashi, which he opened in Colombo in 1995.

Many thanks to powerful diplomatic ties amongst the two international locations, there was a tiny but lively Japanese expat community in Sri Lanka, and they commenced patronizing Nihonbashi. The locals quickly adopted. If food stuff were being the Grammys, Munidasa wasn’t seeking to earn Best New Artist — he was aiming for a Lifetime Accomplishment Award.

Ministry of Crab opened in 2011. The two dining places landed the initially-ever Sri Lankan slots on the once-a-year Asia’s Best Places to eat list — Nihonbashi in 2013 and MOC two decades later — putting the small place on the worldwide foodie radar in a way it hadn’t been ahead of.

In 2021, MOC experienced a single of its very best showings ever, clocking in at number 29.
MOC is inside central Colombo's historic Old Dutch Hospital complex.

MOC is within central Colombo’s historic Aged Dutch Clinic complex.

Courtesy of Ministry of Crab

A restricted menu with limitless flavors

Some restaurants, specifically ones in crowded markets that are making an attempt to stand out, rely on continual innovation to continue to keep guests coming in.

You will find generally a hunt for the up coming big trend — cronut, any individual? — or a photogenic ingredient that appears to be more developed for social media buzz than taste.

But the very first matter anyone strolling into Ministry of Crab notices is the menu — it is tiny, tightly edited and totally centered about a person main ingredient. That ingredient is the Sri Lankan mud crab, also regarded as the lagoon crab. For a extensive time, these crabs were being a staple of every single Sri Lankan kitchen, but after they turned additional worthwhile to promote overseas than to continue to keep at home they began disappearing from dining tables on the island.

For an indecisive diner who receives overcome by far too numerous selections, MOC is a desire.

You select 1 dimension of crab primarily based on what is accessible — from the smallest measurement, the “half-kilo” at 500 grams all the way up to the coveted “Crabzilla” at 2 kg in addition — and choose which of 6 or so available preparations appears most effective to you.

Selections contain a Singaporean-design chilli crab, black pepper crab and a “risotto-esque” baked crab that has to be requested at the very least three hrs in advance.

There are also one or two appetizers — these types of as a crab salad served within a fresh new, partly scooped-out avocado — and 1 dessert, a coconut creme brulee — served inside of a clean coconut, as you might be noticing a topic here. And that’s it.

With this kind of a condensed menu, you can find nowhere to hide. Crabs are as contemporary as they can be, caught daily by fishermen Munidasa has designed relationships with. The restaurant has a plan towards never serving a crab that weighs a lot less than 500 grams — not just so you will find far more meat to operate with, but mainly because people more compact crabs are too younger.

The taste of Sri Lanka

How do you put a lifestyle on to a plate? How do you distil a nation and its individuals down to a person one ingredient? Reclaiming Sri Lankan mud crabs for the persons who farm and cultivate them is a single way.

Pursuing his successes, Munidasa has also turn out to be an ambassador for Sri Lankan meals.

“I feel you can find a substantial, enormous, enormous idea that Sri Lankan food stuff is 90% Indian,” he says.

“Our rices are unique, how we prepare dinner is diverse. We consume all the things. We try to eat beef, we try to eat fish, we try to eat pig, we take in chicken. Many folks think Sri Lanka is ‘India mild.’ There are selected similarities, sure. But once more, it can be distinct simply because the distances are so tiny. You can go from 12 degrees in the hills to 32 degrees on the beach front in issue of 3 and a half several hours.”

Munidasa has also been in a position to just take his display on the road. MOC now has outposts in Bangkok, Mumbai, Shanghai, Manila and the Maldives, all of which he oversees. He also organizes pop-ups about the globe as a way to teach persons about Sri Lankan foodstuff and the unique flavors of Sri Lankan mud crabs.

Being the lone agent of his place on the Asia’s 50 Ideal checklist will come with equally pressures and privileges.

Irrespective of the accolades, Munidasa is still functioning in a meals entire world that is massively Western-centric. In Sri Lanka, he states, nobody has listened to of the Asia’s 50 Best listing or designs their summertime holiday getaway all-around traveling to a solitary cafe.

And odds are significant he will never ever get a Michelin star — not due to the fact of deficiency of talent, but for the reason that Michelin has under no circumstances included Sri Lanka.

Nonetheless in some techniques, it really is this absence of mainstream pedigree that has enabled Munidasa to find praise from inside. He has not bought licensing rights to his name to a big conglomerate, and there’s no stress to create a line of branded items.

“If you generally test to meet other people’s expectations, you may in no way expand. You will under no circumstances outdo yourself.” All rights reserved. | Newsphere by AF themes.