April 22, 2021


All Things Delicious

Tenoshima: A master chef’s tasting menu in the convenience of your have house

3 min read

The spring equinox may well be just all around the corner, but Tokyo presently hovers on a very distinct cusp: When will the state of unexpected emergency occur to an conclusion?

Tempting acquire-out: Tenoshima sushi sets get pride of place on this restaurant’s to-go menu. | ROBBIE SWINNERTON

One particular thing that’s specific is we’re not out of the coronavirus woods nonetheless, which means the ongoing night dining curfew appears to be like established to proceed for at least another few of weeks.

For shoppers, this signifies at most an inconvenience. If we want to dine out, we have to commence early usually we get in, prepare dinner for ourselves or get by snacking on advantage retail store fare. For quite a few places to eat, even though, it feels like a dying spiral.

Spare a imagined for the professional places to eat that serve leisurely, multicourse omakase (tasting menu) foods, drawing customers who like to settle in for the evening. Mainly because they are now demanded to shut by 8 p.m., dinners that may generally take two hours or extra need commence occasions that are totally impractical, specifically for weekdays.

Hardest strike have been the more compact, considerably less established areas, as chef Ryohei Hayashi and his wife, Sari, can attest. Due to the fact opening in 2018, their 18-seat 2nd-ground Japanese restaurant, Tenoshima, has won a potent name — and a Michelin star — on the power of Hayashi’s abilities, married with a refreshing lack of classic formality.

Possessing honed his capabilities for 17 a long time below Yoshihiro Murata, the doyen of Kyoto cooks — to start with at Kikunoi, Murata’s renowned ryotei (superior-stop cafe) in the aged funds, and afterwards at its Tokyo branch — Hayashi has paid all important dues. He has absent on to establish his personal solution, drawing inspiration from his travels overseas as nicely as the seafood of his ancestral property, the island of Teshima in the Seto Inland Sea.

To support tide on their own in excess of this period of uncertainty, the Hayashis have introduced a takeout menu (in Japanese only) showcasing quite a few of the typical dishes that aspect on their major menu.

Room for seconds: Simmered yellowtail and daikon in a broth is a simple and delicious Tenoshima side dish. | ROBBIE SWINNERTON
Place for seconds: Simmered yellowtail and daikon in a broth is a basic and delicious Tenoshima aspect dish. | ROBBIE SWINNERTON

Satisfaction of place goes to the outstanding Tenoshima sushi sets (¥5,900 entire/¥2,950 50 %-sizing), showcasing a selection of distinctive fish: either sawara (Spanish mackerel) or saba (mackerel) anago (conger) plus two sorts of inari (stuffed deep-fried tofu pouches), with pickled ginger and dipping sauces on the aspect. For a tiny supplement, you can get them packed in a woven bamboo box, each and every part of sushi wrapped in eco-friendly sasa bamboo leaves. Freshly manufactured, frivolously seasoned, beautifully introduced, this is hugely advisable.

Every single sushi is also obtainable independently (from ¥2,500 inari from ¥350), as are servings of rice cooked in ceramic hotpots (¥800 plain/¥3,500 with crab or other toppings). There is also a vary of very simple, appetizing side dishes, these kinds of as dashimaki tamago (Japanese omelet ¥1,500) kaki-furai (breaded deep-fried oysters ¥2,200) and buri-daikon (simmered yellowtail and daikon in broth ¥2,000).

Purchased up to a day forward, for decide on-up from the cafe in the afternoon, they are all excellent. A wonderful way to sample high-stop washoku (Japanese cuisine) at household, whilst supporting Hayashi endure until far better instances return.

1-55 Setting up 2F, Minami-Aoyama 1-3-21, Minato-ku, Tokyo 107-0062 03-6316-2150: www.tenoshima.com open up 5-10 p.m. (at the moment till 8 p.m.) closed Sunshine. tasting menu from ¥13,000 takeout obtainable from ¥350 closest station Aoyama-itchome nonsmoking main cards accepted English menu English spoken.

In line with COVID-19 rules, the government is strongly requesting that inhabitants and visitors workout warning if they select to pay a visit to bars, dining establishments, tunes venues and other general public areas.

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