March 1, 2021

danranrestaurant

All Things Delicious

The verdict on 3 new Atlanta restaurants: Lady Diver, Ok Yaki, and the Chastain

3 min read
Green Curry Mussels at Girl Diver

Photograph by Andrew thomas lee

Lady Diver
Announced initially as a Vietnamese-Cajun seafood restaurant, Richard Tang’s new dining location in Madison Yards seems to be a large amount like his place in Inman Park, a Korean barbecue restaurant named Char: colourful, modern-day, bar-pushed, and with a lot of included outside seating. A mural with a terrifying brick-purple octopus wrapped all over a female pearl diver is a little bit frustrating in the tiny room. Some of the menu is devoted to costly shareable seafood platters best suited for dining with a crowd, but there is considerably to praise about the seafood by the pound that incorporates boiled crawfish, lobster, and (a beloved of mine) tail-on shrimp with semidetached heads. The kitchen has a lot of refined methods to elevate dishes this kind of as mussels in inexperienced curry, eco-friendly papaya salad with shaved shrimp, braised pork stomach with child carrots, and saucy shaken beef. Really don’t anticipate significantly that will come to feel Cajun or Vietnamese, but the blend of Chinese, Thai, and other dishes collected from all-around Asia is well curated. Modernist twists, generally excellent textures, and a clever menu of cocktails and sake endorse this new cafe, primarily with the terrific hospitality that is a person of Tang’s numerous abilities. 955 Memorial Travel, Reynoldstown, 404-525-2424

Alright Yaki
In the parking whole lot guiding the Ormewood Park Hodgepodge Coffeehouse, I was on the lookout at the new Ok Yaki when the Japanese phrase for “cute,” “kawaii,” popped into my intellect. I was flooded with satisfied reminiscences of the numerous snacky foods I affiliate with Osaka, a birthplace of okonomiyaki. The new Alright Yaki, an enlargement of Corban Irby’s pop-ups at We Suki Suki, is as genuine a corner of Japan as exists in our metropolis. The very small, reduced-slung setting up, painted manga-type in cheerful tints of rose and turquoise unmistakably evokes Japanese lifestyle. The food—mainly the okonomiyaki, which is a savory shredded cabbage pancake topped with dancing bonito flakes, seaweed, drizzles of Kewpie mayo, and soy—is an exciting addition to Moreland Avenue. Toppings these as shrimp, pork belly, tofu, and extra are accessible for both equally the prosperous house specialty and the sauteed slender wheat noodles (yakisoba) sprinkled with shiny-pink pickled ginger. Handmade gyoza dumplings, Japanese curry, excess-significant tonkatsu pork cutlets fried in panko crumbs, and an evolving roster of Osaka-design meals are perfectly worth ordering. 714 Moreland Avenue, East Atlanta,
404-999-9254

The Chastain
No cafe opened throughout the pandemic has occur near to matching the amount of enjoyment produced by the Chastain. Originally a humble country retail store transformed into a rustic dining place by Invoice Daly in 1946, the Purple Barn Inn was a hangout for the moneyed elite for many years. Becoming the Horseradish Grill in 1994, it channeled the South beneath chef Scott Peacock. Now, the recently renovated barn feels present day and swank under new possession. Christopher Grossman, who formerly headed the kitchen of Atlas, is a chef you can have faith in implicitly. The place could operate as a cafe, serving Brash coffee, housemade pastries, and quiches throughout the working day, but appear dinnertime, it is all about foie gras (with sweet potatoes and peppercorn meringue), butter-poached lobster (in and all-around tender agnolotti with chanterelles and sugar snap peas), and other deluxe vittles. The existence of witty (and considerably less highly-priced) treats—such as a crisp turkey wing (Buffalo-fashion with blue cheese and incredibly hot sauces) and, significantly less effectively, an unorthodox version of shrimp and grits—balances the seriousness of products ranging from lamb loin marinated in yogurt to a superbly rendered Ga mountain trout dusted with potato and bacon and plated on creamy greens. The emphasize is the nontraditional but obscenely crisp and tender profiteroles stuffed with Chantilly product, garnished with a transparent sugar tuile and just the appropriate volume of salted caramel. The wine list has depth and attraction, and cocktails perform a major part. 4320 Powers Ferry Road, Chastain Park, 404-257-6416

This article seems in our March 2021 issue.

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